MKS

eye controlled wheelchair!

by:MKS     2020-03-04
People who have completely lost their muscles cannot operate their own wheelchairs.
Eyedrivomatic system leverages existing eye tracking technology to allow users to drive chairs again
Only their eyes.
It\'s a low cost, open source way to give mobility back to people who think they \'ve lost mobility forever.
It is suitable for electric wheelchair users who have wheelchair-mounted PCs, who operate using glasses equipment.
Currently, the system only works with the grid2 aac package.
However, we are working on a separate pc app that should be ready by Christmas.
This note is about the hardware needed to build the eye drops system.
Software installation and getting started will be introduced in separate instructions.
Eyedrivomatic is an open project.
Open source software and hardware.
For more information and links to 3d design files and software, please visit a complete system (
1 brain box, electronic hand, adjustable locator)
Arduino Uno R31 x 3d printed parts for 1 x brain box (
Substrate, lid and two cable fixings)
1 x 3d printing piece for electronic hand (
Base, X servo bracket, lower ring, Y servo bracket, upper ring, transmission arm)
1 x 3d printing joystick sleeve (
Right inner diameter for your joystick Shaft)
3d printed parts of 1 x adjustable locator board (
Lower ring, upper ring, protective ring)
2 × turniy servo Max micro servo (
Or similar micro-servo with high torque)
2 x metal 25t servo arm (
Design calls for specific models, see illustration)
1 x relay shield (
A specific model is required for the design.
Please see the picture below)
1 x servo/sensor shield (
A specific model is required for the design.
Please see the picture below)
1 x usb a to usb B cable (
The length required depends on the location of your brain box)
1 x usb a to DC plug (
Special Type of DC plug is not important as it will be removed)
2 x servo extension cord, male-to-female (
The same length required depends on the location)
20 x No6 disc head, Pozi self tapping screw 13mm10 x No6 disc head, Pozi self tapping screw 16mm10 x M3 Bolt, countersunk head, pozi 10 x M3 nyloc nu10 x M3 flat washer 1 x self adhesive hook and ring strap. 20mm wide.
1 x Super Glue 1 x double sided foam strap 60 cm hook and same (
5 or 10mm wide, or cut from a wider roll)
The adjustable locator is permanently fixed on the joystick unit of the wheelchair with double-sided foam tape.
It provides a reliable and accurate installation point for the electronic hand.
If it is no longer needed, it can be easily removed without damaging the chair.
Clean the 3d printed parts and polish them if necessary until they are comfortably combined, as well as the upper ring (
The one with four knobs sticking out)
Able to rotate easily.
When assembling, they should look like a photo at the bottom.
The guard ring is placed on the top and the ring above is clipped.
Then remove the guard ring and apply some glue to the inner surface of the bottom ring.
Then replace the ring.
This will stick the fixing ring to the bottom ring while still allowing the upper ring to rotate freely.
When the glue is set, insert the self-tapping screw into one of the locking screw holes (
Where will it be when it sits in the chair)
And tighten it until the upper ring is no longer moving. Locator wedge (optional)
The locator needs to be installed perpendicular to the joystick axis on the joystick unit.
The joystick axis of many joystick units is perpendicular to the upper surface of the unit.
If you have a unit like this then you don\'t need a wedge.
However, if your joystick is tilted forward relative to the joystick unit, then you need a wedge to adjust the level of the locator relative to the axis.
Select the appropriate wedge and glue it to the bottom of the locator.
Then fix the locator on the device with a double-sided foam strap.
Whether you use a wedge or not
First, assemble the four 3d printed parts required and clean them up if necessary.
Put the lid and two cable fixing plates on one side.
The brain box needs to have three printed circuit boards and must be a model in the photo.
From left to right, they are;
Arduino uno, relay shield and servo/sensor shield.
Install the arduino on the substrate.
There are four holes in the Arduino, corresponding to two plugs respectively, and two holes on the substrate.
Position the arduino on the pin and fix it with two self-tapping screws.
Then plug the usb cable into the arduino.
Next, we have to install the trunk shield.
It has rows of pins under it that fit into a row of sockets on the arduino.
Pins don\'t go in all the time, but they go a long way-see the illustration.
Be careful not to bend them.
Also, make sure that underneath the trunk shield does not touch the top of the usb socket housing on the arduino.
The next step is to install the output socket.
The output socket is 3.
5mm mono headphone sockets with 17 cm cable connection.
Cut them off from the mono extension cord or headphones on the cables cable.
Make sure they are mono, not stereo.
You need three.
Now, get the end of the cable ready.
Peel them off and twist the ends.
Most cables like this are coaxial, which means there will be an inner core with its own insulation.
There are many conductors around.
Screw it together and this is your second core.
Each core takes about 8mm long before it disappears into the insulation.
The inner core insulation also needs to extend an outer sheath of about 8mm.
Bend your 8mm twisted ends in half, so you have 4mm ends now.
Now install the three output sockets on the green terminal block on the relay shield.
Number the terminals on the relay shield, numbered 1 to 4.
Connect the three output sockets to the first, third and fourth.
Each block has three connecting holes marked as NO, COM, and NC.
Connect each socket to NO and COM.
Which line is in COM, which line is in NO is not important
In the above photo, Ben is installing an output socket for the fourth terminal block.
It is important that there are very few bare wires outside the terminal blocks and there is no insulation inside the terminal blocks.
In the above photo, the socket connected to the fourth terminal is properly connected.
Those on Block 1 (
At the top of the photo)
None of the three.
There are too many bare wires outside the terminal, which may lead to unintentional short circuit.
It will be bad.
Next we need to prepare the usb power cord.
This looks like the photo above, or something like that.
We have to cut off the DC plug, depending on where you want to put the power, and maybe some cables.
Then peel off and twist the end.
If you are as lucky as I am, you will have a red insulated core and a black core.
Red is the front and black is the ground.
If you are not lucky, you have to find out the cable polarity with a multimeter.
You will also need a short cable with a peel end, as stated in the photo 6 cm long.
Connect red now (positive)
Connect from the usb power cord to the NO on the second terminal.
Then connect the short wires to COM.
Like the third photo.
Then it\'s time to install the servo/sensor shield.
This is the same way as the relay shield.
Make sure it sits well. Now.
VERY IMPORTANT.
Next to the Blue terminal block on the servo/sensor shield is a small green thing called a jumper. Remove it.
Pull up.
Then throw it away and then connect the black line to the GND on the servo/sensor shield terminal.
And the end of the VCC short line.
Same as the last photo.
Now, gently pull each wire one by one to make sure they are firmly grasped by the terminal blocks.
Next, we will connect two servo extension cords.
There are three rows of pins on the servo/sensor shield.
The three lines are marked G, V and S respectively.
In the other direction they are marked 0-13.
These two plugs need to be arranged in eight rows and nine rows.
Yellow or white wires are essential in the lines marked with S.
The wires in black or brown must be in the G row.
The next stage is to secure the cable in a two-layer cable holder.
All wires have lower floors except servo cables.
First add a little Super Glue to each small cable channel printed on the substrate.
Then lay a cable in each channel.
There is a spare channel. Ignore it.
Then put the fixing plate below on it.
There are also printed channels on the plates below.
Put it flat.
Then screw it in place with a self-tapping screw.
It should be the third photo.
Let it dry for about ten minutes now.
Then carefully remove the screw and put a drop of glue water in two places between the screw holes.
Then carefully lay a servo cable on each drop of glue water.
Place the fixing plate above and screw it in place. Nice and tight!
At this point, it is very worthwhile to mark the output cable.
The servo cable of No. 8 is called X, and the other is called Y.
The three output outlets are marked as 1, 2 and 3 respectively.
One is in Terminal 1, Terminal 2 is in Terminal 3, and Terminal 3 is in Terminal 4.
The usb cable entering the arduino should be marked \"pc \".
The other is a thinner usb cable labeled \"servo power only \".
Then open the lid, secure it with four screws, tilt back, relax and have a cup of tea.
The brain box is finished and the firmware is ready.
First, wash the 3d printed parts and sand if necessary.
Check the bottom plate for easy and comfortable mounting on the locator.
The two parts need to be glued together.
Before applying super glue, check if they fit together well.
Apply the glue to the area shown in the illustration.
Slide them tightly together
When these parts are dry, insert the m3 Bolt into one side of the upper ring bracket.
When it enters almost all, add a drop of glue to the thread and screw in all the way. Then set aside.
Then put a bolt in the side hole of the lower ring, facing out.
Glue it the same way.
When everything is dry, install the side of the upper ring cradle onto the lower ring.
Make sure the cradle is right.
Then stick the other bolt to the other side of the cradle and fix it in place.
It should move freely from one side to the other, but not forward and backward.
Let everything dry.
Now screw a servo onto the servo carrier and screw one onto the lower ring assembly.
Make sure both servo systems are correct.
Now we have to center the servo system.
This requires you to upload the firmware to the brain box and upload the software to your PC.
This process is introduced in a separate structure.
Then run the software and connect the servo cable and the servo power supply.
Navigate to \"trim\" and two servo systems to 90 degrees.
Then go to the driving control and check that both servo systems are moving when you play the direction button.
Now fix the two servo arms to the position on the lower ring assembly.
Each arm has two small Allen bolts to tighten the arm to the servo.
When the two servo systems are connected to their respective arms, tighten the Allen bolt.
In the process, try not to move the servo spindle.
In addition, with respect to the lower ring, try to install a lower servo in its carrier.
Now prepare the transmission arm.
Insert the bolt into both ends of the arm, washers on both sides of the arm, and secure it in place with nyloc nuts.
The NUT should be snug but allow the arm to rotate freely on the Bolt.
It is then fixed with nyloc nut to the upper hole of the servo arm and the other end of the upper ring cradle.
It\'s time to install the velcro strap on the substrate.
30 cm pieces of velcro 20mm are needed in every corner.
Two hooks on the servo end of the substrate and two hooks on the other end cycle.
Pass the strap through the substrate and put it back around the Strip, and the background paper is still attached.
Just half.
Then peel off the bottom paper and stick the two sides of the tape together.
Then repeat the process until you complete all four.
Finally, insert the protruding bolt on the lower ring into the corresponding hole on the substrate.
Insert the servo carrier into the position on the base plate and screw it in with two self-tapping screws.
Then you\'re done!
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