Simple All Grain Electric Beer Brewery BIAB
by：MKS
2020-02-28
Self-brewed beer can not only be \"as good\" as commercial beer, but sometimes even better.
Many home brewers use extracts to make beer, but the best beer is usually made from all grains.
This method can become complicated using pumps, multiple containers and gas burners.
Electric brewing can change this.
After years of brewing beer at 3 propane power breweries fed by gravity in a cold garage, I think it\'s time to simplify and start brewing in a warm interior.
While some electric breweries use sophisticated circulating pumps, PID controllers and digital temperature displays, I would like a simpler one (less expensive)
Method of electronic brewing.
The result is a manually controlled brewery that uses a beer brewing method called \"bagged beer\" or BIAB.
This brewery is easy to use, with fast heating speed, small volume and easy cleaning.
It is installed on the washing machine in the laundry room and can easily be stored on the shelf.
I love this lovely little brewery and won\'t get back to the cold days in the garage soon.
Want to be one?
Let\'s get the parts we need. 1)Kettle ($35-$155)
In my local restaurant store (
Like cash and carry with you)
I found it cheap ($35)
In that store you can get a circular streamer rack that is very much needed to keep the grain bag away from the heating elements.
These aluminum kettles don\'t have pre-
So I decided to use a new 10 gallon stainless steel kettle with a basket and pre-
Stainless steel socket mounting.
While this option is much more expensive than the aluminum option, I think it will be very durable and of better quality.
If you\'re going to brew 10 gallons at a time, buy a 15-gallon or 20-gallon jar.
After brewing the batch of 10 gallons, I had no problem with the batch of 5 gallons.
I think a very careful winemaker can brew about 8 gallons of beer in a 10 gallon pot, but the risk of boiling is great and can be avoided.
Unfortunately, you still need to drill another hole in the kettle for the heating element, which is a big hole.
To do this, you should really use the punch. 2)
Punch holes. ($25-$85)
The hole of the heating element needs to be exactly 1.
With a diameter of 25 inch, there is not much space for the Tiger holes made with a stepped drill or a hole saw.
Unfortunately, the only tool that can do this hole well is the hole punch.
There are three parts to this tool: the punch, the mold and the tie rod.
The punch and mold are located on both sides of the kettle, and by unscrewing the pull rod, the punch and mold are pulled together to make an absolutely perfect hole.
Unfortunately, the cost of this tool is about $85.
Stores such as Port Freight have cheaper versions, but the reviews for these tools are so bad that I went on to buy the real \"Greenlee\" version and after using the tool twice, most of the investment was resold on eBay. (
You will need a hole of this size in the construction later)3)
Heating element ($23)
This seems to be the heating element recommended by everyone in BIABrewer. I got it. It works great. 4)
Heating element controller ($250 or less)
Some people have more skills than I have in creating their own electronics.
If \"pulse width modulation\" and \"replace C1 with 2.
2 uF capacitors reduce the frequency \"makes sense to you, then you can save a lot of money by making your own controller.
I won\'t pretend I know what to do.
Instead, I purchased this controller and it was designed to plug into the standard NEMA10-
30 240 V dryer exits.
This is the most expensive product in the brewery and may be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but the dial on this device allows me to keep the kettle at the correct temperature. 5)
Washer, lock nut and O-ring kit (
Basic cost less than $20)
You need this big washing machine/gasket (
Item No. 96853 a253)
I can\'t find it in my useful hardware store, so I think you need to buy it online.
I have a hard time linking directly to this section, so just type the numbers in the search box.
This lock nut and O-ring kit is also required.
If you want a side pick-up or need to add a welded partition kit or socket to the aluminum kettle, this is a great place to buy them. 6)
Electric box, cover, Cable (
Found at the local hardware store. .
Less than $30 in total)
Single post wind rain electrical anti-box wind rain cover stainless steel electrical rain cover 10-
30 plug and cable for 240 V dryer. 7)2-
1/4 hole sawwood 2-
If you don\'t have a double metal hole saw, 1/4.
The drill press is good when using this saw. 8)
Whirlpool/side pick this accessory kit is a great way to drain almost all the wheat juice from the kettle.
Include it with the loose nut and O-ring you ordered. 9)
I like this thermometer.
The probe is waterproof and has a timer that you can set when you reach a specific temperature.
Top it with a magnetic back and you have the best brewing thermometer ever.
Optional of course. Let\'s build. Click \"Next\".
Using the instructions I found here, I drilled a 2-on the electric box-
1/4 holes using a double metal hole saw (
And a drill machine)
Enter the bottom of the electrical junction box.
When you can drill the corner of the ground attachment, make sure that the area is fully available to connect the ground wire.
The aluminum drill is very easy so the hole is not challenging.
It is not a key size either, so the hole punch is not essential.
I polished the back of the electric box so that JB welds would stick together better.
Some people use circular cables, but I use flat dryer cables, so I have to make a flat hole for the wire feed on the side of the electric box.
Two round holes and a Dremel to cut the flat slot.
It\'s not my proudest moment, but with a little silicone sealant and a cable clip JB welded to the side, I believe it\'s safe.
Since there is a big hole in the electric box, we need to prepare a precise 1-for that hole-
Accept 1/4 holes of the heating element.
Use knockout punch to cut the exact 1-
There are 1/4 holes on the stainless steel cover plate.
I also flatten the plate with a hammer so it sticks well to the electric box.
Apply JB Weld to the back of the electric box and 1-
Holes in the larger 2-1/4
You cut 1/4 holes in the last step.
While JB Weld is an amazing thing, you can ensure the integrity of the bonding by placing a popular rivet in each corner for a firm bonding.
Decide where you want the hole in the electric box kettle.
The drain pipe should not be disturbed or too high or too low.
If it is too high, the basket will touch the elements and if it is too low, the kettle will not sit flat because the junction box will be lower than the bottom of the kettle.
Choose carefully because you only have one chance to punch holes in an expensive kettle.
When you decide, drill a pilot hole for the tie rod of the knockout punch.
I used a step drill.
It is best to drill stainless steel with some oil (
I just used 10W30 oil but you can use the cutting oil)
Slow speed.
If you hit the center of the hole with a punch or nail, this can help keep the drill bit from being hollowed out.
Once the pilot hole is drilled, use the elimination machine for beautiful 1-
There are 1/4 holes in the kettle.
After the JB Weld is fully installed, you can assemble the heating elements and the electric box.
Insert the element through the electric box and put it in O-
Gasket and gasket.
I added a small silicone filler to the bottom of the element outside the kettle to increase the leak insurance.
Tighten the locking nut by passing the heating element through the hole of the kettle.
The chart should indicate the silicone O-
Before the flat cover plate, the outside of the kettle has a ring and stainless steel gasket.
There are more guidance and charts here.
Connect two wires (both 120V)
To components and ground wires.
You can see the place where the silicone cauldron is squeezed in the photo.
It is a good idea to check the continuity of the shovel from the kettle wall to the electric plug ground to ensure good contact.
Install your pickup tube and everything should look like a second photo.
Fill the kettle with a 6 gallon mark and check for leaks everywhere.
If everything stays dry, screw the cover in place and insert the elements into the controller.
Turn on the switch and see how fast things heat up.
I found that I can bring 6 gallons of cold water to the temperature (170 degrees)
In less than 15 minutes, it was boiling in a few minutes.
The power of this heating element is impressive.
I found that I can brew 5 gallons of beer from cold water to throw yeast in less than 3 hours, which is much faster than my propane system.
It is also easier to clean up as there is only one pot to clean up.
As shown in the last photo, electric controllers, baskets, bags and most other items are placed inside for easy storage.
I won\'t go into details on how to brew with this device as this has been well explained elsewhere.
The following is the short version: 1)
Pour 7 gallons of cold water into the kettle and add a pH stabilizer and water chemistry if needed. 2)
Open the heating element
Reached about 156 degrees.
It takes about 15 minutes. 3)
Turn off the heating element. 4)Add your grain.
A standard light beer may contain about 8 pounds of malt and a pound of crystal malt. 5)
Stir thoroughly and check your temperature. 147-
153 is my usual goal. 6)
Set a timer for 60 minutes.
You might pack a blanket around the kettle, but I usually only find 2 degrees down in an hour. 7)
Take the grain out and let it flow into the kettle.
I have a pulley for this, but you can put a few rulers under the basket and let it drain. 8)
Boil all the kettle and add the bite.
Adjust the heating element to low rolling boiling. 9)
Add the sauce flower in 45 minutes. 10)
After 15 minutes, add the scented bouquet and turn off the heating element. 11)
Use the cooling method of your choice to reduce the temperature of the beer to below 80 degrees.
I use a counter-current chiller, while some use a immersion chiller or a plate chiller. The simplest (and slowest)
Let the covered beer cool itself. 12)
Add yeast, ferment for 2 weeks, bottle or barrel.
Any big mesh bag will be made, and there are people on the Internet (
Who customized these bags.
If you don\'t want to put the package above the element with the basket, you can simply close the element, drop the grain package, and then re-open the element after smashing.
I brewed the beer with an extract, a home stove and a three tier propane system.
There is nothing better than the simplicity, small size and ease of use of this system.
I\'m not going back to cleaning 3 ships, pumps, hoses and 5-
6 hour brewing day!
Let me know how your brewery got together for you!
Without the guidance of the people at the power brewery and BIABrewer, it is not possible for me to make this note. Check them out.
Many home brewers use extracts to make beer, but the best beer is usually made from all grains.
This method can become complicated using pumps, multiple containers and gas burners.
Electric brewing can change this.
After years of brewing beer at 3 propane power breweries fed by gravity in a cold garage, I think it\'s time to simplify and start brewing in a warm interior.
While some electric breweries use sophisticated circulating pumps, PID controllers and digital temperature displays, I would like a simpler one (less expensive)
Method of electronic brewing.
The result is a manually controlled brewery that uses a beer brewing method called \"bagged beer\" or BIAB.
This brewery is easy to use, with fast heating speed, small volume and easy cleaning.
It is installed on the washing machine in the laundry room and can easily be stored on the shelf.
I love this lovely little brewery and won\'t get back to the cold days in the garage soon.
Want to be one?
Let\'s get the parts we need. 1)Kettle ($35-$155)
In my local restaurant store (
Like cash and carry with you)
I found it cheap ($35)
In that store you can get a circular streamer rack that is very much needed to keep the grain bag away from the heating elements.
These aluminum kettles don\'t have pre-
So I decided to use a new 10 gallon stainless steel kettle with a basket and pre-
Stainless steel socket mounting.
While this option is much more expensive than the aluminum option, I think it will be very durable and of better quality.
If you\'re going to brew 10 gallons at a time, buy a 15-gallon or 20-gallon jar.
After brewing the batch of 10 gallons, I had no problem with the batch of 5 gallons.
I think a very careful winemaker can brew about 8 gallons of beer in a 10 gallon pot, but the risk of boiling is great and can be avoided.
Unfortunately, you still need to drill another hole in the kettle for the heating element, which is a big hole.
To do this, you should really use the punch. 2)
Punch holes. ($25-$85)
The hole of the heating element needs to be exactly 1.
With a diameter of 25 inch, there is not much space for the Tiger holes made with a stepped drill or a hole saw.
Unfortunately, the only tool that can do this hole well is the hole punch.
There are three parts to this tool: the punch, the mold and the tie rod.
The punch and mold are located on both sides of the kettle, and by unscrewing the pull rod, the punch and mold are pulled together to make an absolutely perfect hole.
Unfortunately, the cost of this tool is about $85.
Stores such as Port Freight have cheaper versions, but the reviews for these tools are so bad that I went on to buy the real \"Greenlee\" version and after using the tool twice, most of the investment was resold on eBay. (
You will need a hole of this size in the construction later)3)
Heating element ($23)
This seems to be the heating element recommended by everyone in BIABrewer. I got it. It works great. 4)
Heating element controller ($250 or less)
Some people have more skills than I have in creating their own electronics.
If \"pulse width modulation\" and \"replace C1 with 2.
2 uF capacitors reduce the frequency \"makes sense to you, then you can save a lot of money by making your own controller.
I won\'t pretend I know what to do.
Instead, I purchased this controller and it was designed to plug into the standard NEMA10-
30 240 V dryer exits.
This is the most expensive product in the brewery and may be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but the dial on this device allows me to keep the kettle at the correct temperature. 5)
Washer, lock nut and O-ring kit (
Basic cost less than $20)
You need this big washing machine/gasket (
Item No. 96853 a253)
I can\'t find it in my useful hardware store, so I think you need to buy it online.
I have a hard time linking directly to this section, so just type the numbers in the search box.
This lock nut and O-ring kit is also required.
If you want a side pick-up or need to add a welded partition kit or socket to the aluminum kettle, this is a great place to buy them. 6)
Electric box, cover, Cable (
Found at the local hardware store. .
Less than $30 in total)
Single post wind rain electrical anti-box wind rain cover stainless steel electrical rain cover 10-
30 plug and cable for 240 V dryer. 7)2-
1/4 hole sawwood 2-
If you don\'t have a double metal hole saw, 1/4.
The drill press is good when using this saw. 8)
Whirlpool/side pick this accessory kit is a great way to drain almost all the wheat juice from the kettle.
Include it with the loose nut and O-ring you ordered. 9)
I like this thermometer.
The probe is waterproof and has a timer that you can set when you reach a specific temperature.
Top it with a magnetic back and you have the best brewing thermometer ever.
Optional of course. Let\'s build. Click \"Next\".
Using the instructions I found here, I drilled a 2-on the electric box-
1/4 holes using a double metal hole saw (
And a drill machine)
Enter the bottom of the electrical junction box.
When you can drill the corner of the ground attachment, make sure that the area is fully available to connect the ground wire.
The aluminum drill is very easy so the hole is not challenging.
It is not a key size either, so the hole punch is not essential.
I polished the back of the electric box so that JB welds would stick together better.
Some people use circular cables, but I use flat dryer cables, so I have to make a flat hole for the wire feed on the side of the electric box.
Two round holes and a Dremel to cut the flat slot.
It\'s not my proudest moment, but with a little silicone sealant and a cable clip JB welded to the side, I believe it\'s safe.
Since there is a big hole in the electric box, we need to prepare a precise 1-for that hole-
Accept 1/4 holes of the heating element.
Use knockout punch to cut the exact 1-
There are 1/4 holes on the stainless steel cover plate.
I also flatten the plate with a hammer so it sticks well to the electric box.
Apply JB Weld to the back of the electric box and 1-
Holes in the larger 2-1/4
You cut 1/4 holes in the last step.
While JB Weld is an amazing thing, you can ensure the integrity of the bonding by placing a popular rivet in each corner for a firm bonding.
Decide where you want the hole in the electric box kettle.
The drain pipe should not be disturbed or too high or too low.
If it is too high, the basket will touch the elements and if it is too low, the kettle will not sit flat because the junction box will be lower than the bottom of the kettle.
Choose carefully because you only have one chance to punch holes in an expensive kettle.
When you decide, drill a pilot hole for the tie rod of the knockout punch.
I used a step drill.
It is best to drill stainless steel with some oil (
I just used 10W30 oil but you can use the cutting oil)
Slow speed.
If you hit the center of the hole with a punch or nail, this can help keep the drill bit from being hollowed out.
Once the pilot hole is drilled, use the elimination machine for beautiful 1-
There are 1/4 holes in the kettle.
After the JB Weld is fully installed, you can assemble the heating elements and the electric box.
Insert the element through the electric box and put it in O-
Gasket and gasket.
I added a small silicone filler to the bottom of the element outside the kettle to increase the leak insurance.
Tighten the locking nut by passing the heating element through the hole of the kettle.
The chart should indicate the silicone O-
Before the flat cover plate, the outside of the kettle has a ring and stainless steel gasket.
There are more guidance and charts here.
Connect two wires (both 120V)
To components and ground wires.
You can see the place where the silicone cauldron is squeezed in the photo.
It is a good idea to check the continuity of the shovel from the kettle wall to the electric plug ground to ensure good contact.
Install your pickup tube and everything should look like a second photo.
Fill the kettle with a 6 gallon mark and check for leaks everywhere.
If everything stays dry, screw the cover in place and insert the elements into the controller.
Turn on the switch and see how fast things heat up.
I found that I can bring 6 gallons of cold water to the temperature (170 degrees)
In less than 15 minutes, it was boiling in a few minutes.
The power of this heating element is impressive.
I found that I can brew 5 gallons of beer from cold water to throw yeast in less than 3 hours, which is much faster than my propane system.
It is also easier to clean up as there is only one pot to clean up.
As shown in the last photo, electric controllers, baskets, bags and most other items are placed inside for easy storage.
I won\'t go into details on how to brew with this device as this has been well explained elsewhere.
The following is the short version: 1)
Pour 7 gallons of cold water into the kettle and add a pH stabilizer and water chemistry if needed. 2)
Open the heating element
Reached about 156 degrees.
It takes about 15 minutes. 3)
Turn off the heating element. 4)Add your grain.
A standard light beer may contain about 8 pounds of malt and a pound of crystal malt. 5)
Stir thoroughly and check your temperature. 147-
153 is my usual goal. 6)
Set a timer for 60 minutes.
You might pack a blanket around the kettle, but I usually only find 2 degrees down in an hour. 7)
Take the grain out and let it flow into the kettle.
I have a pulley for this, but you can put a few rulers under the basket and let it drain. 8)
Boil all the kettle and add the bite.
Adjust the heating element to low rolling boiling. 9)
Add the sauce flower in 45 minutes. 10)
After 15 minutes, add the scented bouquet and turn off the heating element. 11)
Use the cooling method of your choice to reduce the temperature of the beer to below 80 degrees.
I use a counter-current chiller, while some use a immersion chiller or a plate chiller. The simplest (and slowest)
Let the covered beer cool itself. 12)
Add yeast, ferment for 2 weeks, bottle or barrel.
Any big mesh bag will be made, and there are people on the Internet (
Who customized these bags.
If you don\'t want to put the package above the element with the basket, you can simply close the element, drop the grain package, and then re-open the element after smashing.
I brewed the beer with an extract, a home stove and a three tier propane system.
There is nothing better than the simplicity, small size and ease of use of this system.
I\'m not going back to cleaning 3 ships, pumps, hoses and 5-
6 hour brewing day!
Let me know how your brewery got together for you!
Without the guidance of the people at the power brewery and BIABrewer, it is not possible for me to make this note. Check them out.
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