sonic mirror audio reactive instruments

by:MKS     2020-03-02
The Sonic mirror is an electronic instrument that automatically records and synthesize audio for creating interactive sound devices.
With a combination of Raspberry Pi, microphones, speakers, low-cost electronics and software developed using the super collider programming language, you can also make your own Sonic mirrors!
This project is perfect for manufacturers and sound artists interested in developing interactive and embeddable sound systems for creative applications of sound art, experimental music or multimedia performing arts.
Even if you are not planning to complete the entire structure, there is still a lot of useful information here to help you develop your own interactive audio hardware and/or software projects, including: detailed instructions and schematic on how to connect quality, budget-friendly, microphone and speaker to Raspberry Pi a bootable Raspberry Pi disk image optimized for low-latency audio, including :-Raspbian 8 (jessie)
Linux operating system with SuperCollider 3.
9 built by source and sound mirror interactive audio program, schematic and production-ready PDFs and Gerber files for custom PCB :-
Connect the Adafruit Class D speaker amplifier to 1/8 \"(3. 5mm)
Audio input port and hardware volume control knob-
Soft for hardware switch-break the GPIO pin of some Raspberry Pi
Shutdown and reset-
Connect the power supply of Raspberry Pi to speaker amplifier and in-field microphone laser cutting machine, prepare a beautiful pdf of customized housing for Raspberry Pi, speaker, microphone, audio amplifier circuit this is almost like 4 instructions in 1! What a deal!
More complete details and documents on the Sonic mirror project and its exhibition can be found here.
Cheers, happy production!
Here is a complete list of all electronic, audio, and general hardware components used to create an acoustic mirror instrument organized by category: audio output and sound card: Speaker driver (50W / 3. 5 inch / 4Ω)-
For example, BOSS stereo BRS35 stereo 3.
Class 7 w d audio amplifier-
USB external stereo adapter (USB Type-A)-
This is a compact and cheap USB audio interface, compatible with Raspberry Pi, with good and reliable sound quality.
All other similar types I tested have various intermittent sound quality issues that make them unusable for a long time, but this one ended after a few hours, a few weeks.
Modified USB microphone: all-round capacitor microphone capsule in the field (9. 5mm)-
Like these max98 12l DC 3. 6V-
VAlinks, 12V resident microphone amplifier board (TM)
Mini flexible USB microphone
Eat for its goose neck microphone case only. The built-in mic and pre-
The Amp components don\'t have a good sound quality, so you can discard them and ideally recycle them for other DIY audio projects.
USB microphone audio and power cord: USB cable for panel installation-
A male to a female
This is used to mount the USB microphone to the top of the instrument housing (2)3. 5mm (1/8 in. )
Audio cable for men to men in TRS or TS: 12 in. length (
Right angle plug recommended)-Like these -
One is used to make a USB microphone cable, and the other is simply used to connect the output of the sound card listed above to the speaker amplifier via the custom splitter board listed below.
Custom splitter board and various connectors and cables: custom PCB (31. 5 x 42mm)-
This is more than one
Breakthrough board specially made for the purpose of this project.
The manufacturing instructions and complete details are listed later in this manual.
Resistance: 1k Ω and 10k Ω (2)
Screw terminal joint: 3. 5mm 2-pin-
Like these or these 0. 1 in. Female header (
At least 24 pins)-Like these-
Note that when cutting a larger line into size, you usually lose a pin, so plan accordingly.
One line usually has about 36 pins, so one line should be enough. 3.
5mm stereo big three-core breadboard
Friendly audio jack instant DPDT switch-Like these-On-Off-
Off and reset switch for Raspberry Pi 10k Ω potentiometer switch-Like these-
Power switch and volume control for speaker amplifier (5)
Jumper Cable-from female to male
Connect the GPIO pin of the Raspberry Pi to the PCB 22 gw stranded core copper wire-Four 5 -6 in.
The long piece will do the operation and power: Raspberry Pi 3 Raspberry Pi case (
Optional but recommended)-
Make sure it allows access to the GPIO pin of the Pi for 16gb or larger micro SD card 5v 2.
5A DC power panel mount extended USB cable-Micro-
B Female MicroB Male-
To break the power port of the Raspberry Pi through the shell of the sound mirror, make sure the other hardware: 1/8 in. thick plywood-At least 19 in. x 13 in.
All the components that make the sound mirror shell require Wood (2)
Cross round head screws: 3/8. long, ~3/8 in.
Head diameter, 10-32 thread size-Like these-
Install the speaker on the front baffle of the housing-
If you have Machine screws that are slightly longer in length, just make sure they are at least 3/8 in length.
Head diameter so that they can span the holes on the BOSS speaker mounting board listed above.
Back-glued VelcroLike these-
Optional, but it is recommended to fix the Raspberry Pi inside the shell of the Sonic mirror-
There are at least three in there. x 3/4 in.
Strip will heat shrink Tube :-3/32 in.
Diameter, 2:1 shrinkage ratio (Like these)-1/4 in.
Diameter, 2:1 shrinkage ratio-3/8 in.
Diameter for female USB, 2:1 shrinkage ratio-
Cable for Microphone connector (2)
Aluminum bracket: 1/4 outer diameter, 3/4 length, 4-40 Thread Size-Like these-
In order to ensure the PCB breakthrough in the Sound Mirror shell-
You may have brackets of different thread sizes, but just make sure it matches the thread size of the screw. (4)
Cross/slotted screws for disc head combination: 1/2. -3/4 in. length, 4-40 Thread Size-Like these-
Fix the PCB breakthrough in the shell of the acoustic mirror (4)
Self-adhesive crash pad foot-Like these-
To level the sound mirror and lift it slightly to any surface, you can put it on the assembly tool: soldering iron stripping pliers
Like these helpers (
Optional but recommended)-
Like these miniatures (
Optional but recommended)-
A hot fire gun or lighter like this (
For heat shrinkage)
The Sonic mirror instrument consists of seven main components: once you have assembled all the materials listed in the previous step, by manufacturing and/or preparing the components 1-
Before putting everything together to assemble the ultimate instrument, assemble it separately.
As a broad overview, the steps of the Assembly are as follows, described in more detail in the rest of this note: with regard to electronic assembly, the abstract version of the entire circuit is shown in the circuit diagram image of this step.
Note that the figure indicates all the interconnect through the welded bread plate, but the actual sonic mirror instrument uses a custom PCB to facilitate the interconnect between the various components represented by the circuit diagram.
This circuit diagram is provided only to help you understand how all audio and electronic components are connected in an abstract way (
Let\'s say you understand the connection of the welded bread plate).
In the rest of this manual, all the necessary information to make your own custom PCB is detailed, along with more specific circuit diagrams and assembly instructions.
Overall, it takes about 4 hours to fully assemble, connect, flash, and activate an operable Sonic mirror instrument, so you might want to split it into several working sessions. 1.
Cut 2 3 \"twisted 22 ad hoc working group copper wire. (
Speaker cable can also be replaced). 2.
Tin is prepared at both ends of each copper wire. 3.
Weld each wire to the terminals on the speaker.
The microphone is manufactured by replacing the internal components of the pre-
Existing USB microphone.
By doing so, I was able to eat the goose neck microphone case without having to make it myself, while selecting the pre-
Amp and in-field microphone capsules offer a wider frequency response and better audio quality than the original USB microphone.
Modify to convert the digital USB microphone effectively (with a built-
Function in sound card and A/D)
A pure analog microphone connected directly to the USB sound card used by Raspberry Pi.
Modified USB microphone: all-round capacitor microphone capsule in the field (9. 5mm)(Like these)MAX9812L DC 3. 6V-
VAlinks, 12V resident microphone amplifier board (TM)
Mini flexible USB mic1.
First, unscrew the grille of the USB microphone and gently pull out the enclosed microphone capsule and PCB so that the connected wires fully extend. 2.
Using a pair of wire cutters, wire each to a position close to the PCB contact and remove the PCB. (
In this project, we don\'t use the PCB of the microphone for anything, so you can put it aside and recycle it as an electronic device
Waste, or ideally re-use it for other DIY audio projects. )3.
Then with a set of stripping, about 1/4 of the insulation is stripped from the end of each wire, exposing the bare twisted wire to the bottom.
With your fingers, gently twist the strands of each thread into a woven lead.
Weld the standing microphone capsule to max98 12l pre-
Implement the amp by following each of the steps below.
I highly recommend using a set of hand assist and a micro pair to make the following assembly steps easier. 1.
Collect max98 12l in advanceamp and one 9.
5mm resident mic capsules in the list of components. 2.
Use a multimeter to find out which lead of the standing capsule is a ground connection.
Set the multimeter to its continuity test mode, touch one of its probes to one lead of the standing capsule, and touch the other probe to the side exterior of the standing capsule. 3.
Pass the lead of the resident capsule through two passes-
Holes at the end of pre-
Print the amplifier next to the label on the \"MIC\" screen to ensure grounding (–)
Lead in the electric capsule is in contact with the microphone floor (–)
Pre-contactsamp. (
Note: Do not push the capsule all the way down so that its bottom touches the pre-amp\'s PCB.
No more than 1/4 \"capsules should be passed through
Hole in front
Amp PCB, allowing the microphone capsule to be removed from the pre-
The PCB of the Amp, after bending the lead, once welded in place and oriented forward. )4.
Bend the lead of the resident capsule so that it is flush with the bottom of the pre-surface
Amp board, gently bend the standing capsule forward until it faces out/forward.
See the last picture of this step for reference.
The goal is to keep the resident capsule as close as possible to the final expected position before welding. 5.
Hold the position of the capsule with your finger and rotate the entire microphoneAmp\'s down.
Secure the pre-
Amp PCB with a set of help hand, fix the microphone capsule in place with a small clip. 6.
Weld the lead of the electric capsule to the direct-
Hole contacts on Pre-amp\'s PCB. 7.
Trim the extra leads with a wire cutting machine, and gently adjust the position of the standing capsule so that it is pre-positioned with the microphone
Amp board, no direct contact with it.
Your final result should be similar to the last picture of this step.
For the final USB microphone assembly step, you will weld the built-in-
USB microphone case with pre-
Power and audio connection for Amp PCB then insert microphone capsule and pre-
Amplifier in microphone housing.
As in the previous step, it is strongly recommended to use a set of hand assist and a small clip when welding to make sure everything is in place. 1.
Use a set of helpers to secure the USB microphone case in a fixed position. (
Holding at least one aid hand under the main housing around the thin goose neck is the easiest, and the other clamp further above the goose neck above the USB plug for extra. 2.
Ensure that microphone pre-
Amplifier with micro pair or another pair of aid hands.
Orient it so that the top is facing down for easy soldering (i. e.
Make sure the side facing table with screen printing label and surface mounting assembly). 3.
Expose the braided leads of the USB microphone housing wire through the appropriate pass-
Microphone front hole connector
Amplifier for welding preparation.
The connection is as follows (
And display in the connection diagram: 4.
Weld all bare leads of the USB microphone housing wire to the microphone pre-amp PCB. 5.
Trim any excess solder and wires with a wire cutting machine. 6.
Gently rotate and press the microphone pre-
Amp PCB in USB microphone housing. (
I found that before spinning and pushing the microphone
Placing the PCB amp into the USB chassis can be more easily installed, while making the connected wires spiral around the edge of the chassis in a more compact way, which leads to the wiring harness when compared to pushing the whole block directly inward, it is difficult to put the whole wire into the shell. )
This custom cable connection microphone pre-
Audio output of Amp to USB audio interface of Raspberry Pi and microphone front power supply of Raspberry Pi
Power input for amplifier.
It\'s a modified USB-
The cable is installed on the parent panel and the end point is 1/8 \"(3. 5mm)
The power and ground connectors are disconnected.
Ready USB cable connector: 1. Take the USB-
A connector cable is installed on a parent panel and in it (6\")half-way point (
Measurement from parent connector). 2.
Peel off about 3/8 of the insulation from the bare end of the cable to expose the stranded copper shield. 3.
Wrap the shield into a woven lead and then cut it off with a wire cutter.
Only four internal wires (
Red, black, green, white)should remain. 4.
Separate the four internal wires from the fan and peel off about 3/16 of the insulation from their tip. 5.
Twist the stranded core exposed to each thread into the woven lead to prepare for the next welding.
Prepare audio cable connectors: 1.
Cut 1/8 of male to male audio cables in half. 2. Strip approx.
The exposed end is insulated 1/4 \". 3.
Weave the shield into leads and fan out the red and white wires. 4.
Cut it off because there is no need for a white wire.
Red lines and woven leads should be retained only. 5.
Peel off about 3/16 of the insulation from the end of the Red Line and weave its stranded core into a lead to prepare for next welding.
Note: The red line is connected to the tip of the common head 1/8 \"(3. 5mm)
The audio jack and the woven Shield lead are the ground connections for the audio jack sleeve.
The ring of the white wire connected to the audio jack (
Usually used for the right channel of the TRS stereo audio jack)
, But due to the microphone pre-
The amplifier outputs only one audio channel and we do not need to use this connection (
That\'s why we removed the white line).
As always, you can use a multimeter to verify which part of the audio jack corresponds to each wire.
Weld all the cable assemblies together: tip: I recommend using a set of helpers in this step.
Before welding the wires together, don\'t forget to slide all the heat shrink tubes in place.
You can verify the connection by referring to the wiring diagram and instructions extracted below. 1. Cut two 4 -4.
5 \"insulated at its end about 1/4\" stranded 22 ad hoc working group copper wire and tape. (
I used a red and green wire for easy reference.
The solid core line can of course also work under the clamp point, just not very flexible than the stranded line). 2. Slide a 3 -3.
5 \"The piece 1/4 long \"(or 3/8\"? )diameter heat-
Shrink tube around female USB
Cable for panel installation. 3. Slide a 2 -2.
5 \"long piece with a diameter of 1/4\" heat-
Shrink pipe around 1/8 male audio cable. 4. Slide a 1/4 -
3/8 \"long 3/32\" heat-
1/8 \"shrink pipes around each exposed wire of male audio cable (
There is a piece around the red cable and a piece around the weaving shield).
You may need to trim the length of the heat
Contract the pipe slightly to ensure that enough bare lead leads are exposed for welding. 5.
Protect female USB-
Panel Mount cable and 1/8 male head audio cable with help hand so that the respective wire leads can be easily touched with each other during welding. 6. Gently twist (interlace)
The exposed wires connect the leads together in order to establish a secure connection between USB cables and audio cables before soldering them together. (
You can refer to the wiring diagram attached to this step, but I also wrote the connection below).
The USB to audio and broken cable wires are connected as follows: 7.
Weld all the wires together. (
Depending on how helpful you are, you may find that first arrange and weld the wires of the audio cable to the wires of the USB cable, then arrange and weld 22 gw wires to the wires of the USB cable instead of trying to arrange everything and weld it all at once. )8.
Slide the heat shrink fittings with a minimum diameter of 3/32 in place to cover the exposed solder joints connected by four wires and shrink and secure them in place using a heat gun or lighter. 9.
Slide the Heat Shrink tube sheet with a diameter of 1/4 around the audio cable to the two connected audio cable lines and heat it to secure it in place.
The woven copper ground wire of the audio cable should not be visible. 10.
Slide down the loose heat shrink fittings with a 1/4 diameter remaining around the USB cable to cover all individual wire connections and heat them to secure them in place. And that\'s it!
Now you should have a custom cable similar to the one shown in the last picture of this step.
This is a multi-PCB
Purpose: for convenience, I would recommend making this PCB and making sure that the floor area within the final enclosure is minimal.
You can download the original Fritzing file, etchable PDF, SVG and Extended Gerber file of the PCB here.
Making a pcb is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but there are a lot of great guidance on how to make a pcb yourself.
Or you can choose to use PCB manufacturing services like aisler from Fritzing Fab.
Net, that\'s what I did. (
If you end up making PCB designs using the manufacturing service link above, I highly recommend ordering more than 1 price discount, and it is easier to measure the position of the PCB in the casing in the subsequent steps of this manual).
Alternatively, you may want to create your own breadboard circuit by referencing the original circuit schematic.
This is what I did for a few original Sonic mirror prototypes, but the rest of this manual assumes that the specific PCB design downloaded from the link above is used.
Note: If you have only made a PCB as detailed in the previous step, I suggest you skip step 21 \"assembly first-
PCB installation 2/4 \"you can better measure the position of the PCB in the Sound Mirror shell before performing this step.
After you have performed this step, return to this step. 1.
Weld the following components to the PCB (
As listed in the initial component list):2.
You need to assemble 3 if you haven\'t already.
7W audio amplifier by soldering its respective male head pins, junction boxes and gain control breakout pins onto it.
Adafruit has a short guide here. 3.
Soldering all components to the PCB, starting from the minimum, working all the way to the maximum: screen printing on the PCB should make the placement position of each component obvious (
And the attached picture).
You can trim the female head to the right size using a stripping clamp or cutter.
Moment DPDT (double-pole, double-throw)
Switch is used as a shutdown and reset Switch for Raspberry Pi.
This is temporary because when the finger is not driven to either of the two \"on\" positions, it defaults to its middle \"off\" position (up or down).
It has 6 terminal pins arranged in two rows of 3, so it\'s actually like two SPDT switches in one SPDT switch. 1. Cut four 4. 5\" -
5 \"22 Ad Hoc Working Group solid core copper wire and peel off about 1/4 of the insulation from the tip of each end.
Ideally, you would want two pieces of one color and two pieces of the other, making it easier to distinguish between the two halves of the DPDT switch. 2.
Take the DPDT switch and fix it in a small sub-clip or set of auxiliary hands.
Take two copper wires of the same color and Weld to two adjacent terminals in the row of the DPDT switch. (
Through the terminal hole of the DPDT switch, the solid core tip exposed by the wire is threaded, and some pliers are used to wrap the tip around the terminal so that they do not slide out during welding.
You may also want to secure the wire in the right position for welding with an extra helper). 3.
Weld the remaining two copper wires to the two adjacent terminals on the other line of the DPDT switch, but offset them so that they do not align with the wire connection on the other line.
Please refer to the attached wiring diagram to see how the wires are connected to the switch.
The idea is that when the switch is flipped in either direction, only one connection is made at a time.
Next, grab the 10k Ω potentiometer switch and connect it.
Power switch and volume knob used as audio amplifier. 1. Cut five 3. 5\" -
The tip insulation at each end is about 1/4 4 \"Block 22 special working group Solid core copper wire and tape. 2.
Fix the potentiometer switch with a small accessory clip or a set of auxiliary hands, pass the tip of each wire through each terminal hole on the potentiometer switch, bend the exposed tip around the terminal hole of the wiring, fix them in place and weld all the connections to make them permanent. 3.
Cut off any outstanding excess solder joints with wire cutting machine repair.
The finished result should be similar to the attached picture for this step.
The Sonic mirror housing is designed to be laser cut from 1/4 thick plywood and is a friction fit.
In other words, no glue or nails are needed for final assembly (
However, if the laser cut size of your machine is larger, you may find that a little bit of gum helps to secure the final case together and make it more fit).
You can download a zip file that contains the lasercutter-
Prepare PDF files of Adobe Illustrator and shell here.
The sides and top surfaces of the shell all have different voice recording visualization, \"Sound Mirror \"(
Name of instrument). The top face (
The face of the microphone connection)
With 2D spectrum, 3D spectrum and audio waveform are displayed on the side.
Note on included rasterized images: you may obviously want to replace your own image or delete the original, but the next assembly step is to refer to the specific surface of the shell by the image originally carved
The housing is designed as a friction fitting, so depending on the cut size of the laser cutting machine you use and your unique configuration settings, you may encounter different quantities of comfortable or loose fitting housing.
I cut the shell out of 1/4 thick plywood with a laser and found it necessary to use a large rubber mallet to help flush all the parts.
In order to ensure strong friction fit, the size of the design is deliberately tight, so it may be difficult to fit with the hand alone.
If it is difficult to assemble these pieces together by your hand alone, try to assemble everything together with a combination of rubber mallet grinding and gently hammer.
Be careful not to bend or apply too much uneven pressure when assembling, otherwise you may break some thinner parts such as the front speaker baffle. 1.
At the bottom of the shell (the long 8. 5\" x 4.
85 \"works without carving)
On your workbench. 2.
Attach the Side block to the base collected in the previous step, so that the engraving will point outward instead of Upside Down (e. g.
The numbers in the carving of the spectrum are not reversed).
Whether you use the supplied engraving or not, in order to properly locate the workpiece with the cut port, make sure that the workpiece is oriented, so the cut port is closest to the base (
See attached pictures). 3.
After connecting (
Small square with no big hole in it)
To the opening side of the shell, the opening side is closest to the cutouts port in the side block you connected in the previous step. 4.
Connecting the front baffle (
Small square pieces with large hole cut for speaker)
From the rear piece you connected in the previous step to the other end of the shell. 5.
Install the top part on the top of the shell to ensure its comfortable installation.
Orient it so that the laser engraving faces the outside, and in the x-of the spectrum diagram-axis (0. 1 seconds)
Closest to the front baffle you connected in the previous step. 6.
At this point, the empty shell will be fully assembled.
Remove the top part attached in the previous step to prepare for the next assembly step. (
Note: I have never used wood glue and clips to assemble the 6 shells I made, however, if you accidentally cut the wood with excessive temperature and slow laser cutting machine settings, you may find that you need to do this --
The friction is reduced.
If it\'s your situation, it\'s not the end of the world.
Simply glue all the parts of the shell together, except for the top part of course! )1.
Install the assembled speaker through the cut in the front baffle piece.
Orient it so that the cable is closest to the bottom of the housing and close to where the speaker amplifier assembly is finally installed. 2.
Use a cross screw with a diameter of 3/8 to fix the speaker on the baffle. 1.
Pass the microphone connector cable through the hole at the top of the wooden case and press USB-
A female Port enters the hole all the time so that it can be completely flush with the carved sides. 2.
Fix the USB port on the wooden part with the screws that come with the assembly.
First of all, you need to figure out the position of the breakout board that was previously assembled (step 13)
Inside the shell so you can figure out where to drill holes to fix the bracket. 1.
Put the assembled splitter board into the housing and install the exposed end of the speaker cable into the left channel output screw terminal of the speaker amplifier. 2.
Place the breakout board flat near the back of the speaker at the bottom of the case so that the speaker cable will have some slack. 3.
Track/Mark the inside edge of the PCB screw hole with a pencil. 4.
Using a hand drill, drill a 1/8 hole through a drill Mark farthest from the speaker. (
I found that when using a regular hand drill, this is the only screw hole I can drill from this direction of the housing.
It is not possible to drill another B/c hole, and the installed speakers block the direction of the drill.
As a workaround, you have to flip the shell and drill holes from the other side to drill the remaining holes, which is detailed in the next step).
This step assumes that you have a spare unfilled PCB for the splitter board recommended in step 12 above.
With a spare PCB located at the bottom of the case, you can easily track the position of another screw hole (
After installing the Speaker, it is difficult to enter from inside the shell). 1.
Place an unfilled spare PCB at the bottom of the housing, with its square and screw holes aligned the same as the PCB positioned in the previous step (
See attached pictures for reference). 2.
Track the remaining screw positions. 3.
Disassemble PCB and drill (1/8\")
Enter the screw position of the remaining mark.
In this step, you will install the breakout plate bracket inside the chassis. 1.
Screw 2 of small 4-
Thread size of cross screw (
List of components)
By drilling into the hole at the bottom of the shell.
Make sure the screw thread is inside the housing! 2.
Screw the bracket onto the screw. 3.
Fix the screws in place with a screwdriver and use your free hand or pliers to tighten the bracket to the bottom of the case.
Attach an adhesive rubber footpad to each corner at the bottom of the case. (
I would recommend sticking the rubber foot pad to the surface of the shell with a sticky cloth first. )
The rubber footpad will help to ensure the level of the shell, which has better traction when placed on top of different surfaces. 1.
Put the assembled splitter board into the housing and fix the speaker cable in (right or left? )
Channel output screw terminals for speaker amplifiers. 2.
Use the remaining two 4-screw the PCB patch board into the bracket
40 screw thread size. 3.
Position the gain jumper connector of the speaker amplifier to the gain setting you want. (
In my experience, I found it best to set the jumper connector to the maximum gain level position of 18dB).
Since the PCB breakout board is safe in the enclosure, you can proceed with the next steps to connect all the other components to the complete sound mirror circuit. 1.
Collect the DPDT power switch and volume knob potentiometer switch you connected in the previous steps 14 and 15. 2.
Install the volume knob potentiometer switch into the corresponding hole on the side of the shell.
Tighten and secure its fastening bolts in place using pliers.
When facing this side panel of the housing, the potentiometer should be on the left side of the power switch (see picture). 3.
Connect the 5 wires of the potentiometer switch to the distribution board.
Please refer to the attached picture and schematic to make sure you make the right connection. (
I ended up slightly shortening the length of the wires connected to the three terminals of the potentiometer, as these wires are closest to the connection ports on the splitter Board). 4.
Connect the 4 wires of the DPDT switch to the distribution board.
Please check the attached pictures and schematic to make sure you have the right connection. (
After the correct wiring, the switch will cause the Raspberry Pi to perform a soft shutdown while flipping and restart the Raspberry Pi when flipping). 1.
Collect Raspberry Pi 3 and install it in your own Raspberry Pi case. 2.
Locate the Raspberry Pi so you can view all four of its USB ports directly.
Connect the Sabrent USB sound card to the USB port in the upper right corner. 3.
Take a pair of matching velcro strips and stick them together.
The paper on each adhesive surface should be facing out. 4.
Cut 2 for about 1 \"-1.
5 \"pieces of larger strips assembled in the previous step. 5.
Remove the paper from one side of each velcro sheet, reveal their adhesive backing, and attach each to the opposite corner of the lower side of the Raspberry Pi shell (see picture). 6.
Remove the remaining back of the paper from the two velcro sheets, turn the Raspberry Pi to the right and orient it so that the connected USB sound card is close to the breakout board and speakers, and flush the Raspberry Pi with the back corner of the shell.
Press it hard and fix velcro on the shell. 1.
Grab one of 1/8 (3. 5 mm)
Audio cable, connect one end to the Green audio output port of the USB sound card, and the other end to the audio jack on the splitter board. 2.
As shown in the wiring diagram, connect the GPIO pin of the Raspberry Pi to the patch board with the female to male jumper cable. 1.
Grab the top of the housing with the embedded USB mic connector cable and connect its power and ground tap cable to the remaining unattached screw terminals on the tap board as shown in the attached wiring schematic. 2.
Connect the 1/8 male audio jack of the microphone connector cable to the remaining open port in the USB sound card.
Install USB panel installation-
The C extension cable plugs into the open port on the side panel of the housing and connects it to the power input of the Raspberry Pi.
Everything should be connected at this point.
Now is a good time to double.
Check the included wiring schematic and make sure you connect all the devices correctly.
Now that the hardware is assembled and connected, it\'s time to clone the sound mirror disk image to the SD card of the Raspberry Pi.
It is essentially a pre-configured disk image Raspbian month (jessie)
Super Collider 3.
9dev and sound mirror program. (
All these documents that look and sound are here). 1.
GET/make the newly formatted mini SD card (8GB or larger).
Important: Be sure to format the disk image before cloning it to the mini SD card.
You can format the mini SD card using the SD format app. (
If you are using the SD format application, format the SD card using the following settings for the Best result: option> logical address adjustment = yes Select format option> override format (
It takes longer, but make sure it starts successfully after cloning))2.
Download and clone one of the disk image options linked below to the SD card. (
If you don\'t already know, there are many ways to clone SD card images that are out of scope in this manual.
Google\'s quick search will get a lot of answers.
I found, however, that the SD clone application is the most convenient method, which I use to generate the image below. )
Disk Image option 1 (Auto-Boot): Raspbian 8 (jessie)
Super Collider 3.
9 and disk mirror option 2 of sonic mirror program (Non-Auto-Boot): Raspbian 8 (jessie)
Super Collider 3.
9 and sound wave mirror program 3.
After cloning one of the above disk images onto the mini SD card, insert it into the SD card slot of the Raspberry Pi and proceed to the next step. (
The rest of these instructions assume that you have selected disk image option 1. )
Technical note: These disk images are installed by Raspbian/Linux 8 (jessie)
The operating system of the super collider 3 was then installed.
9dev is built from source code based on the supercollider Github directive here.
Press the top cover of the case firmly in place, connect the USB microphone, and plug in the power adapter to activate the sound mirror!
Turn on the volume knob after a few seconds of power on (
Waiting to do so after turning on the power can avoid loud sound in the speaker).
Assuming you have selected disk image option 1 detailed in the previous step of installation, the sound mirror program should be around 60-
Turn on the Raspberry Pi power supply for 120 seconds and you should hear the sound \"start sound\" indicating that the sound mirror program has started successfully. About 5 -
When you hear the start-up sound for 10 seconds, the sound mirror will react to the detected sound it receives through the microphone and it will start working on those sounds and playback the affected results
If you put it for long enough, it will collect a sound library from the environment in which it is located.
If you have followed all the previous instructions for the correct wiring connection and also clone the disk image 1 to the SD card, however, do not hear any boot sound when starting the Raspberry Pi, or suspect it is not working properly, please try the following tips: 1.
Make sure to turn on the volume knob and set it to the maximum volume.
Test the microphone input by capturing, yelling or making a sound.
If it works fine and the volume increases, you should hear the sound mirror processing the input audio within about 60 seconds after turning on the power. 2.
Check all wiring carefully to make sure there is no problem. Please double-
Check the wiring diagram in the previous step. 3.
If your Raspberry Pi doesn\'t seem to respond normally, please go through SSH-
Or use a VNC app like VNC viewer to log in to Raspberry Pi via an Ethernet cable.
The login credentials are included in the README file of the downloadable SD card image linked in the previous steps.
If you are unable to log in to the Pi, there may be a problem with your SD card and/or you are not able to clone the disk image correctly. 4.
If all the other methods fail and you are really determined to get it to work, please send me an email (
Address for next step)
Detail the situation so far and what you have done. And that\'s it!
If you have completed all the previous steps, congratulate you on making your own Sonic mirror!
To get a better idea of how it all looks and sounds after it\'s done, check out the sound mirror sound installation documentation here.
Again, even if you don\'t make it, hopefully some aspects of these instructions will help with the development of your own interactive sound installation project.
If you would like to contact me to let me know what you are doing, please send a ring-a-ding-
Ding Zhi: Scott (dot -. -)tooby (at -@-)gmail (dot -. -)
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