- Terminals & connetors
- Terminal block
- Cable tie
- Crimping tool
- Heat shrinkable tube
- Cable marker
- Junction box
- Cable gland
- Corrugated hose & spiral wrap band
- Wire duct
- Din rail
- Cable clips & mount
- Signal light
- Push button switch
- Standoff insulator
- Pet braided sleeve
- Industrial plug & socket
- Auto fuse
Desktop Power Outlet
In the world of the future, maybe there will be induction systems in our houses and cars so that these things can run and charge without difficulty, but before that we have to deal with sockets and power strips.
Our power outlets are often in inconvenient places.
Especially when you have a computer desk that covers the socket on your wall.
This will definitely allow you to one day charge those small electronics that we all wander around, but it can charge large 20 amp outlets in your store and garage, 120 and 240 v. You need stuff.
* Wood * matching power outlets and covers * outlet electric box * wire clip for this box * replacement line for tool or power cord for computer or printer you lied on tool and East West
* All kinds of Saw * screwdriver * knife or peeling * paint, if you need * drill bit and drill bit * wood filler * glue * Finish nail or trim screw * electrical tester * SanderIf you have a 3D printer then you need a lot less.
Design and print your box and tada.
Put the wires and sockets in and you can run.
You can even print the exit cover and even print the screws to fix it.
Or just get it stuck in the box.
You may not even have to draw it.
Decide how you want the wires to be oriented when they come out of the box you built.
I just picked one.
The hole on the back of the electric box.
So coming out of the back, I can choose whether to leave the box on one side or stand up.
I chose to use the electric box in the wooden box, because these things are generally approved by the insurer\'s Laboratory (UL)for safety.
If the outlet spark is unlikely, I would rather it is not in direct contact with the wood.
As the wire clip sticks out from the back of the electric box, you need to compensate the wooden box by letting it extend deeper than it does.
Once you find this size, you can mark and cut your wood.
You will notice in the photo that I cut the wood in the corner with a 45 degree angle.
This is not necessary, but I went ahead and did it because I had a Mitter.
You can cut these things directly easily.
It\'s actually easier to do this, but if you want to get the box dirty, it doesn\'t look as good as you get the corner dirty.
Your diligence and thoroughness will impress people.
I have a nail gun so I used to put my nail gun together.
You can easily use finish nails or screws.
This will help pre-drill for both.
To increase the strength, use some good wood glue in the joints.
You can insert on the back of the box, but this is only necessary if you are going to dye and try to impress people with how diligent, thorough and thorough obsessive-compulsive disorder you have.
If you\'re going to do any shaping of the box, it\'s better to do it before filling holes and gaps.
You can use a Sander like I do, and you can use it if you have a router and want a very uniform look.
Or some wood files and sandpaper, along with the painkillers you have chosen for pain in your wrist and narrow palms.
You won\'t get even edges if you use a Sander.
I\'m doing this for me, probably the only one who noticed it.
I can put up with some unevenness.
Use a wood filler similar to the color of the wood.
But that\'s really important only if you get it dirty.
If you are drawing, you can use anything at hand.
Fill the gap and let it dry and smooth.
Drill holes for your power cord before completing the box.
If it happens to get the wood on, you can polish and fill it as needed.
You\'ll want to adapt to small swings with a little bit as close to the wire size as possible.
Paint, hand paint or stains (
If the coating is dyed with a transparent sealant).
The wire clip that compensates for the highlight leaves some space on the back of the box.
Luckily, mine happened to be the thickness of the wood I used to make the box.
So I took a piece of scrap steel, put a little wood glue on it, and put it inside to fill the gap.
Pass the wire through the hole in the box and then. . .
Pass the wire through the hole in the box. The other box.
Through the Wire clip.
Pull out enough so you can peel the outer black insulation back and reveal about 3 inch of the internal wires.
Tighten the wire clip about half an inch before the stripping area starts (
Make sure it\'s stuck on black insulation).
Keep it tight so you don\'t have to worry about something weird going on.
Many people feel nervous about the wires.
It\'s really nothing.
I often tell people that running a wire is like running an extension cord and the only difference is that at the end you have to peel the wire off and screw it into something.
It\'s so simple here.
All the shops are similar these days.
Brass screws have black lines, silver thread screws have white lines, green thread screws have green lines (
Or bare copper wire without insulation).
Once you have the socket connected, push the electric box into the wooden case and screw it in to fix it. I had to pre-
Make a hole in my screw.
You may have to do the same, but it depends on what kind of electric box you have.
Now that this is done, screw the socket into the box and place it on your cover.
All houses should be equipped with a socket tester.
Or at least people should buy one when they go shopping.
Make sure you get the GFCI type so you can check if the GFCI circuit is working as well.
They are a great thing to buy for less than $10.
To use it, simply plug it into a new socket and check if the lights indicate that they are wired correctly.
If there is a problem, unpack your socket and check your work.
Worst case scenario, you find your wall socket (
Maybe the whole House)
You can think about putting a stick. on no-
Slide your feet on your socket so it doesn\'t move much when you plug things into the socket.
I don\'t, but of course you can.
Insert it, place it where you choose, and no longer have to bend, twist, and stretch to find the power outlet that is unfortunately placed.
Optional: as noted in several reviews, there are now several power socket manufacturers that include USB ports on them (see photo).
However, be careful what to buy.
If you want to charge the iPad, you need a socket with a USB port rated 2. 1 amps.
This is Amazon\'s description of the socket shown below: \"Leviton USB charger/tamper-
The socket-resistant is compatible with a variety of electronic devices, including but not limited to: iPad, iPhone (
IPhone 5 included)
, Kindle Fire HD, iPod, tablet, mobile phone, BlackBerry, Android phone, Nintendo 3DS, PlayStation Vita, Bluetooth headset, digital camera, Kindle, Nook e-
Readers, GPS, etc.
Note: the USB port is not intended to charge two tablets at the same time.
If the integrated power requirement of the device exceeds the power capacity of the USB port, the charger will be turned off automatically to protect your device.
Charge two tablets with high power USB ports and tamper devices